Phnom Penh: A City of Contrasts, Resilience, and Beauty
My takeaways from my time in the "Pearl of Asia"
What struck me most during my time in Phnom Penh was the visible and immediate disparities. You'll find manicured landscapes, gleaming high-rise towers, luxury SUVs, and fine-dining restaurants in the city's downtown. Just a few blocks away in any direction, though, the scene shifts dramatically. Sidewalk vendors serve grilled beef skewers, sell motorbike helmets and secondhand clothes, and stack air conditioners on plastic stools beside overflowing fruit stands. The rhythm of street life hums 24 hours a day—even monsoon downpours won't slow it down.
Phnom Penh is simultaneously urban and rural. It's inexpensive—until it suddenly isn't. A tuk-tuk ride might cost a dollar, but dinner at an upscale riverside bistro could rival New York or Paris prices. These contrasts are not just economic or architectural—they're historical and emotional, too.
It's impossible to talk about Phnom Penh without acknowledging its past. When the Khmer Rouge captured the city in April 1975, they forcibly evacuated the entire population—about two million people. In pursuit of a warped vision of agrarian perfection, the regime emptied hospitals, schools, and homes, sending urban dwellers to labor in the countryside.
This brutal campaign marked the beginning of a genocide that ultimately claimed the lives of an estimated 1.5 to 2 million Cambodians. Nearly every family in the country was affected. You feel it when you speak with locals. It's there in the stories, silence, and resilience. Phnom Penh today has a population of around 2.4 million—roughly the same number as those forced out in 1975. That shadow still lingers.
Yet somehow, the people's spirit shines even brighter. The young Cambodian teachers I met were some of the most dedicated and inspiring educators I've encountered. Their resilience is not performative—it's lived, earned, and carried with quiet pride. It made me wonder if perhaps surviving such enormous trauma can forge an even stronger next generation.
If you're considering visiting Southeast Asia, I encourage you to include Phnom Penh in your itinerary. Here's why:
1. It's Beautiful
The city views from the banks of the Mekong River are stunning, especially at sunset. I highly recommend booking a riverboat dinner cruise, which gives you a front-row seat to the city's skyline as it glows in the golden light. The Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda, and traditional Khmer architecture are breathtaking, with ornate details that speak to the country's rich cultural legacy.
2. The People Are Incredibly Warm
Tourism is a growing industry in Cambodia, and the people you meet are eager to share their culture and welcome you. Whether it's your tuk-tuk driver, a street food vendor, or a local guide at one of the historical museums, you'll likely encounter genuine kindness, curiosity, and generosity. The current generation is defined by a collective understanding of Cambodia's past and forward-looking hope.
3. It Offers a Powerful Education
A visit to Phnom Penh is not just a vacation—it's an education. The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek are sobering but essential places to visit -- be sure to bring tissues. They provide context and history that deepen your understanding of what Cambodia has endured and overcome. It stands not only as a memorial but as a warning of what unchecked nationalism and a lack of governmental accountability can become.
4. It's Affordable and Accessible
For travelers on a budget, Phnom Penh is refreshingly affordable. Accommodations range from boutique guesthouses to stylish hotels, and the food, especially the local Khmer cuisine, is delicious and inexpensive. Street-side noodles, fresh tropical fruit, and iced coffee stalls are everywhere, and they're as much a part of the experience as any landmark.
5. It's a City in Motion
There's an undeniable energy in Phnom Penh—a sense that things are shifting, growing, and evolving. Cranes dot the skyline—Cafés brim with young Cambodians working remotely or studying. Art galleries and social enterprises are opening up across the city, giving voice to a new generation determined to reclaim and reimagine their country's future.
Phnom Penh may not be the easiest city to understand, but it is worth your time. Beneath the surface, a complex, deeply human story unfolds—a tale of survival, beauty, and becoming.
It's a city that asks you not just to look, but to listen.